At Spectrum Glazing, we appreciate that you likely want to get your DIY conservatory job started as soon as possible. Our high quality installations and services are some of the finest in the country, and should make it exceptionally simple for you to get the best out of your land. However, we appreciate that some people might not be sure where to go when it comes to managing a DIY conservatory installation.
Since we want to see every job that you undertake become a success, not least thanks to our equipment, we’ve broken down some of the general musts needed for proper installation of a DIY conservatory. Make sure that you take all of this into account; in time, it’s going to make a stellar difference to the finished project.
Below, each part in our DIY conservatories is broken down so that you know what will arrive – and how to best go about the fitting.
Fitting Our Diy Conservatory
THE FRAMES: The frames arrive individually packaged and are pre-factory glazed to make the installation quick and simple. The full height frames and door sashes will be heavy so it’s best to have an extra pair of hands to help you do the lifting. When installing frames always ensure the drainage slots in the bottom are always to the outside of your DIY conservatory.
- The first thing to do is fix the wall plate to the house wall. The fixings for the wall plate should be 50 mm from each end and then equally spaced after that. Three fixings should be used for the dwarf wall model and five for the full height frame.
- Again, make sure the fixings are located in brickwork and not mortar joints. Important to make sure the wall connector is plumb before fixing. Before fitting the first window to the wall connector make sure the cill support blocks are in place at bottom of the window. Press firmly down until the frame clips into place, the window should sit flush on the cill. A wall plate adaptor is slid down the legs of the frame until it meets the cill. Slide the window into the wall plate to make the connection.
- Fit the next window into the cill and slide the aluminium connector down legs of both frames to secure. Quarter turn buttons should then be fitted to the joints both inside and outside to ensure exact spacings. Repeat the processes to all frames.
THE EAVES BEAM: Prior to installing the eaves beam it is important to check the frame dimensions and the diagonals for square. For long eaves beams that are supplied in two parts it will be necessary to make a joint with the supplied inline joiner. Before installing the eaves beam you need to attach the external trim to the front of eaves beam, don’t forget to remove the protective film.
- Place the eaves beam on top of the windows and if correct it should sit flush with the front face of the frames. You then slide the retaining bolts into position, the roof plan will dictate where.
- You will also need to join the corners of the eaves beam with the supplied corner jointers. When you have completed the assemble of the eaves beam on top of the windows you will need to drill through the eaves beam into the windows and secure with the 120 mm screws supplied.
- These fixings should be installed two per window and positioned 100 mm away from either end of the window frame.
THE ROOF STRUCTURE: The first item to be addressed is the roof ridge. Referring to your roof plan select the correct number of retaining bolts required and slide them into the ridge wing channels.
- Remove the nuts from the retaining bolts in the eaves beam and keep handy. Attach the two diagonal corner glazing bars to boss end of the roof ridge. Prop the roof ridge into position and attach the nuts loosely.
- Don’t forget to remove all protective film before assemble. Once in position attach the intermediate bars using the same method.
- Attach the wall plate bars using the retaining bolts in the eaves beam and ridge wings. Use your roof plan to check the spacing between the roof bars, if correct tighten all the retaining bolts in their correct position.
- Once completed recheck the measurements and them permanently fix the wall plates to the house wall avoiding mortar joints.
CONSERVATORY ROOF GLAZING: If your roof glazing material is polycarbonate, note that the printed protective film donates the side of the sheet that is to face out. The print also informs you of the correct method to store the sheeting prior to installation.
- There is also a label with a number on it with will correspond to the roof plan regarding the position of the sheet. Snap fit the glazing support trims into the channel on the eaves beam, between the roof bars. Do not remove the film on the glazing tape at this stage.
- Lay a bead of silicon on the breather tape at the end of the sheet and push fit the polycarbonate end closer into position. Next, remove the protective film from the outside of the sheet and push into position in the wall plate channel. Do not remove the inner protective film until all internal works are complete.
- With the sheet in position remove the film from the glazing tape and push firmly downward. Repeat the process for all the roof sheets.
RIDGE, BAR AND TRIM CAPPINGS: Now that the roof sheets are in position you need to attach the top caps to make a permanent fixing and to waterproof with a tight seal. It is good practice to moisten the gaskets on the top caps so they spread more easily during installation.
- Using a plastic mallet, hammer on the top caps starting from the top and ending at the ring beam. To complete the glazing bar installation fit the glazing bar end cap with the screws provided.
- To seal the ridge capping, first fold in the foam bung between the roof bars and ridge. The ridge capping is attached to the ridge by bolts that are slide into position, at about 500 mm centers, in a groove in external ridge capping. The cresting and finial slide on the ridge. The whole assemble is then pushed down onto prongs in the center of the ridge.
RAINWATER GOODS – CONSERVATORY GUTTERING: The down pipe can be fitted anywhere on the gutter run as it is supplied with universal connections.
- The rainwater system is supplied with Ogee brackets which are to fitted 150 mm from each corner and the rest equally spaced. The Ogee bracket is fitted to a groove in the ring beam by pulling it down until it locks into position.
- To fit the gutter to the bracket, hang from the front edge and rotate it up to the back of the bracket until you hear the first click. Now the gutter is in place you can cut the 60 mm diameter hole to take the multi positional outlet by pushing it into place on the base of the gutter.
- The down pipe is then push fitted into place and you can pipe the retention clips, elbows and shoes as required to complete the installation
As ever, if you have any questions or uncertainties about your installation please contact our team. We can help you better understand our products and to make sure that you can get the best installation possible. Usually, managing something as challenging as DIY conservatory installation can be hard work.
We’ll help you to get around that problem nice and quickly with the help of our professional expertise and assistance, so contact us today for more information on how to best handle any DIY conservatories that you have chosen.
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